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Chicago Sun-Times’ “The Grid” features historic churches in its Ukrainian Village profile

24.10.2018, 16:38
This story on Ukrainian Village is one in a series by the Sun-Times focused on the interesting people and places in Chicago’s many neighborhoods, intended for locals and visitors alike in hopes that all will be inspired to explore our city. We have engaging videos and a comprehensive story – all curated by the Sun-Times audience team to help provide you with the most current and meaningful information about the important and best things to do in this and each neighborhood we visit.

Ukrainian Village is a neighborhood that holds a special place in my heart. I lived here – near the intersection of Augusta and Western – for more than six years. It’s charming with its cafes, restaurants and classic dive bars. It’s walkable and family-friendly while remaining as popular with singles. It’s equally welcoming to artists, young professionals and the older generation.

My favorite part of Ukrainian Village is experiencing the lingering presence of Eastern European culture, in particular Ukrainian traditions. The neighborhood’s namesake residents have lived here for generations. It was lovely to hear multi-generational families speaking their native languages and to see traditions carried out on Easter and Christmas. Sometimes you would see families in traditional vyshyvanka- elaborately embroidered shirts often part of the Ukrainian national costume.

Often called one of the best neighborhoods to live in Chicago, it’s fought to preserve its culture and traditions while remaining open to changing times. Many active community members have made sure to prioritize preservation and keep a close eye on development and stay involved with the alderman.

Ukrainian Village is a neighborhood in the greater community area of West Town. Its borders include Division and Chicago (north and south), and Damen and Western (east and west) Avenues. I have extended the western border to Rockwell Avenue – which many locals consider to be “Ukie Village.”

About 75 percent of the neighborhood is designated as a Chicago landmark district. According to the organization “Preservation Chicago” it took three different designations over the course of five years to preserve a historic area from Damen to Oakley (east to west), Haddon to Iowa (north to south) Avenues.

Home remodels and renovations in the historic district have to meet the approval of the city’s Landmark Commission. Many of the homes in the preservation district were built in the late 1800s into the early 20th century and include a mix of two and three-flats and gable-topped brick cottages.

Many of these historic cottages were developed by William Kerfoot. The city’s official “Chicago Landmarks” website notes that “nearly one out of every three” buildings in Ukrainian Village were Kerfoot buildings. Kerfoot, a real estate developer, was famous for reopening his real estate office, a hastily built wooden shack in the “burnt district,” just a few days after the Great Chicago Fire in 1871. His unpretentious worker cottages were well built with detailed craftsmanship.

The history of Ukrainian Village

There were four major waves of Ukrainian immigration to the United States that resulted in an influx of Ukrainian settlers.

The first mass immigration happened in the early 1900s. Many of these were unskilled, uneducated migrants who were looking for prosperity and a way to escape oppression. Ukraine was in the midst of Russian and Austro-Hungarian political tension.

The second wave of immigration happened from 1920 – 1939. Ukraine’s declaration of independence at the end of World War I resulted in many semi-skilled, educated workers hoping to escape the political and economic pressures of newly independent Ukraine. In the 1930s, five Ukrainian parishes were established in the city.

“The Roman Catholic Church didn’t recognize us (Ukrainians) as Catholics, so we had to form our own parishes out of protection,” said lifelong Ukrainian Village resident George Matwyshyn. “These parishes were formed along ethnic group lines. They spoke the same language with common interests and traditions. Traditionally the parishes were German, then followed by the Polish, and Ukrainians knew them from the old country.”

The third immigration wave occurred around the 1950s. These immigrants were highly skilled, professional Ukrainians. World War II had further complicated Ukraine’s political landscape and destroyed infrastructure, leaving many homeless and without work or hope. The United States’ “Displaced Persons Act of 1948” helped many Ukrainians escape political oppression.

In Ukrainian Village, the Self-Reliance Federal Credit Union founded by the Self-Reliance Association of American-Ukrainians was established in the 1950s to better service loans to the community. The bank still is in operation today at its location at 2332 W. Chicago Avenue.

The fourth wave of Ukrainian immigrants arrived in the 1990s, following the dissolution of the Soviet Union. This was mostly for economic reasons and the result of post-independence downturn in employment and prosperity in the country.

George Matwyshyn’s family moved to Ukrainian Village in 1955. A scientist by trade and former president of the Ukrainian Village Neighborhood Association, he’s writing a book on the history of the neighborhood he loves so dearly.

Matwyshyn’s research has uncovered that Greeks, Russians and Italians have history in Ukrainian Village, along with the Germans who settled and farmed much of the land in West Town. He said Ukrainians were attracted to the area because of the familiar Polish presence. He estimates around 5-to-7 thousand Ukrainians still live in the neighborhood.

He is one of a concerned group of citizens who are adamant about preserving the history and culture of the neighborhood. “You should have roots. It’s important that you know where you come from because it’s a part of you. And if you’ve forgotten that, then you’ve forgotten your own self.”

As a life-long resident he’s seen the changes happen firsthand. “In the 70s, people were scared. You avoided Division Street. Now, homes are astronomical in price,” said Matwyshyn.

Things To Do

The Chicago Architecture Center provides a walking tour of Ukrainian Village that includes many of the significant churches and homes that are protected as Chicago landmarks.

Another resource to connect with is the Ukrainian Village Neighborhood Association. It’s a non-profit community organization, formerly known as the Ukrainian Village Preservation Society. The organization promotes responsible urban planning, civic engagement, and community advocacy.

The churches of Ukrainian Village

Saint Nicholas Ukrainian Catholic Cathedral is modeled after the multi-domed 11th-century cathedral of St. Sophia in Kyiv, Ukraine. It features magnificent frescos and mosaics. Eastern Rite Christians follow Byzantine-Slavonic traditions, have their own Patriarch and are in communion with Rome. The idea of St. Nicholas Parish was first conceived in 1905 by a small group of Ukrainian laborers. By 1906 they had raised enough funds to acquire their first church at another location. As the community grew, the laborers purchased the property at Oakley Blvd. and Rice Street in 1913 and completed construction in 1915. The need for a school was realized and constructed in 1936 and then expanded in 1954. In 1961, St. Nicholas Parish became St. Nicholas Cathedral and the seat of the Eparchy.

Saints Volodymyr And Olha Ukrainian Catholic Church was established in 1968 to preserve and faithfully adhere to the traditions of the Ukrainian Church. This parish held fast to the Julian Calendar and a traditional liturgy.

Holy Trinity Orthodox Cathedral is one of two houses of worship designed by famous architect Louis Sullivan. Funded by Russian Czar Nicholas II, Sullivan drew on Byzantine and Russian Provincial styles, while adding his own architectural design and flair such as the influence of the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements. The church was founded by immigrants from southern Russia inspired by small rural churches they remembered from home.

Saint Volodymyr Ukrainian Orthodox Cathedral was built in 1916 and originally located on Erie Street near Damen Avenue. It was the center of the Ukrainian Orthodox community in Chicago for 30 years. In 1937, it was elevated to the status of cathedral for the Midwest, and moved to its present location in 1945. The cathedral is a remodeled German Lutheran church, in the Medieval-Gothic style most notably showcasing flying buttresses. The cathedral has an Eastern Byzantine interior while maintaining a German-Gothic temple.

Ji's Take

Ukrainian Village holds tightly to its old traditions and history. Its namesake Ukrainian settlers and founders have left an indelible mark on the neighborhood, and the following generations haven’t forgotten their roots. There are hipsters – but it’s not so hip that it’s exclusive. There are young professionals and young families starting out, but it’s still friendly to singles, the older generation and artists. It’s a neighborhood in the truest sense, where people are invested in the history and future of where they live. It’s charming and quaint, hip and bustling, all at once. It’s truly one of my favorite neighborhoods where you get a taste of the old world and the new – living harmoniously together.

This new Sun-Times video series showcases the best of Chicago’s neighborhoods (and suburbs!) by turning a spotlight on the people, places and things that make our city one-of-a-kind. Look for a new video episode each Wednesday on the Chicago Sun-Times website. #thegrid.

Ji Suk Yi

Chicago Sun-Times, Sep 12, 2018